Saturday, July 18, 2009

Ultra Vanilla

This is the second, less intense version of Ultra Vanilla. The original version was discovered semi-accidentally the first time I ever made ice cream. The recipe I was following called for two teaspoons of vanilla extract. With full knowledge that a tablespoon is three times the volume of a teaspoon, I decided that two teaspoons of vanilla couldn't be enough vanilla flavor, but not knowing what amount was enough, I just changed the unit to tablespoon.

I was very pleased with the result, but was independently accused several times of putting a cup of rum in the mix. I conceded that while the intense vanilla flavor is what I wanted, the amount of alcohol that comes with it when vanilla extract is the only source of vanilla flavor is too much. So I had to get my vanilla in other ways, specifically, using 1 tablespoon of vanilla extract, steeping a vanilla bean in the hot milk, and using vanilla sugar instead of regular sugar.

To make vanilla sugar, 3 or 4 weeks ahead of time, cut a 6-9 inch long vanilla bean into into 1 to 2 inch lengths. Put a couple of pounds of sugar in a moisture-proof container. Then mix the bean pieces around in the sugar, seal it up and put it aside for 3-4 weeks. You can probably get good results more quickly with the same amount of vanilla in 1 pound of sugar. You can refill with more sugar as you use it, and add more beans over time. It's like one of them magic oil pots.

I'm pleased with this version of the recipe, but would still like to get a more intense vanilla flavor.

2/3 cup VANILLA sugar
2 large egg yolks (or 2 whole eggs)
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 2/3 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 vanilla bean (6-9 inches long)

1. Cut the vanilla bean into two or three pieces. Slice each in half length-wise, and scrape the innards into the milk. Put the remaining bean pods in the milk, too.
2. Heat the milk & vanilla bean in heavy, medium-sized saucepan to a SIMMER for 5 minutes.
3. Remove from heat, cover, and allow to steep for 15 minutes.
4. Beat sugar into egg yolks until they are pale yellow.
5. Beat in flour and salt.
6. Strain milk & SLOWLY beat it into yolks, forming a custard.
7. Heat custard until thick (back-of-spoon test) (in double boiler if you can)
8. Strain & allow to cool.
9. Refrigerate 3-24 hours.
10. Stir in heavy cream and vanilla extract, and freeze in Ice Cream maker.

notes

14.1 % butterfat based on 3.0 cup volume pre-freeze (although last time around I got 3.5 cups out of it, but I didn't do the butterfat calculation. Probably around 12%)

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Lavender Ice Cream

I first made this because it's unusual, but I expected it to be a one-time novelty. It turns out that it's surprisingly good, although definitely a recipe you'd want to reserve for special occasions.

3 c. light cream
3/4 c. sugar
4 large egg yolks
2 Tablespoons dried lavender flowers (FOOD GRADE)
2 teaspoons All-Purpose flour


1. Heat the light cream & lavender flowers in heavy, medium-sized saucepan to a SIMMER.
2. Remove from heat, cover, and allow to steep for 15 minutes.
3. Beat sugar into egg yolks until they are pale yellow.
4. Beat in flour.
5. Strain cream & SLOWLY beat into yolks, forming a custard.
6. Heat custard in double boiler (over simmering water) until thick (back-of-spoon test)
7. Strain & allow to cool.
8. Refrigerate 3-24 hours.
9. Stir and freeze in Ice Cream maker.

Notes
Deserves to be served with pizzelle or some other lightly flavored cookie or pastry. Maybe as an ice cream sandwich?

15.4 % butterfat based on 3.5 cup volume pre-freeze.

Consider using 2/3 c. honey instead of sugar.

Garnish with crystallized flour petals.

Be sure to use food grade lavender petals.

If your lavender petals are old and not as potent smelling, add up to 1 teaspoon of rose water before refrigerating (step 8).

Sunday, March 22, 2009

White Chocolate Ice Cream

1 1/2 c whole milk
1 c heavy cream
4 oz white chocolate, coarse chopped
4 large egg yolks
1/2 c. sugar
pinch of salt

1. Melt white chocolate in simmering double boiler.
2. Simmer milk over medium heat.
3. In several small batches, whisk hot milk into white chocolate until smooth.
4. In another bowl, whisk in egg yolks, sugar, and salt together.
5. SLOWLY beat the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture, forming a custard.
6. Return custard to top of double boiler.
7. Stir constantly, until thickened (back-of-spoon test).
8. Allow custard to cool slightly, then strain.
9. Mix cream into custard.
10. Cool 3-24 hours.
11. Stir & put in Ice Cream Machine, freeze according to directions.

Notes
11% butterfat based on 3.25 c pre-freeze volume.

Make sure white chocolate has cocoa butter as an ingredient.

Add chunks of white chocolate after freezing is mostly finished. (Although I really prefer this as smooth and untainted.)

Consider 2 more oz of white chocolate and 1 fewer egg yolks.

I'm not quite satisfied with the process for melting the white chocolate. Adding liquid to melted chocolate doesn't appear to be a good idea. Another recipe call for heating the milk to very hot then dropping the chocolate chunks in.

Cabernet Sauvignon Ice Cream

Most of the other recipes that will show up on this blog have been adapted from various sources. But this one I created myself.

2 cups Cabernet Sauvignon wine
2/3 c. sugar
1/4 t. salt
1 2/3 c. milk
2 large eggs
1 t vanilla extract
1 c. heavy cream

1. Bring wine to a boil in a heavy saucepan. Boil until reduced to 1/2 cup.
2. Beat sugar into eggs until they are pale yellow.
3. Add salt to eggs.
4. Heat milk until it simmers.
5. SLOWLY beat the hot milk into the egg mixture, forming a custard.
6. Put custard in top of simmering double boiler. (Can also use regular sauce pan.)
7. Stir constantly, until thickened (back-of-spoon test).
8. Allow custard to cool slightly, then strain.
9. Mix reduced wine, cream, & vanilla into custard.
10. Cool 3-24 hours.
11. Stir & put in Ice Cream Machine, freeze according to directions.

Notes
12.5% butterfat based on 3.5 c. volume of mix pre-freeze.

Put mix in freezer for 10 minutes before putting in machine.

Good results with "Coppola Cabermet Sauvignon" and "Seven Oaks - J. Lohr - Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon". You really don't want an expensive bottle for this recipe, as you'll be boiling the heck out of the wine. On the other hand, don't buy a cheap wine (the kind that gives a headache), because you'd concentrate all the headache-causing the impurities.

Might be good with pepper! (Not kidding) 2t. coarse ground black pepper corns added at step 9 for mild pepperiness, or same added at step 6 for significant heat.

Can boil wine down to 1/4 cup, which would allow addition of more ingredients (e.g. strawberry puree) while still maintaining a decent butterfat percentage.

On the other hand, boiling wine for such a long time can't be good for the wine flavor. Consider leaving wine out in a shallow dish to evaporate... or will this invite contamination?

Other wines to try: Merlot & Pinot Noir. Want to try using a white wine (!) like Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer, but I have my doubts about how well it will turn out.